Chicken Care 101: A Guide For Complete Beginners

Chickens: the gateway animal of homesteading.

Anybody who has chickens can absolutely agree with that statement. It all starts with chickens, then you want a turkey or two, then perhaps a goat… or 5….

You see where this is going. If you are considering venturing into the world of backyard chicken keeping, you are in the right place! As requested by a few friends, I have put together a “chicken keeping for dummies” guide, based on my own years of experience with these wonderful birds.

Ready to jump in? We’ll be covering some basic topics, each hashed out into their own section.

This post may contain affiliate links.

Why Have a Backyard Flock?

I have an egg carton given to me by my mother (hi mom!!) that says “My pet poops me breakfast”. That’s precisely why we have chickens. We love the supply of fresh eggs, you can’t beat them.

Not only do they poop you breakfast, they poop you some nice compost for your garden. After about 6 months of sitting, it’ll be ready to add to your garden. 

As well as making you breakfast most mornings, they are really fun little pets! Chickens have unique personalities, and I could easily spend all day just watching them. 

Chickens are omnivorous, and love themselves some bugs. This is an obvious benefit to a backyard homesteader. Pest control!

Deciding On Breed, Age & Source

This is the most exciting (egg-citing?) step, without doubt. There are many different routes you could take here, so keep these points in mind.

You’ll want to keep your climate in mind when selecting what breeds to keep in your backyard. Some birds have unique characteristics to let them thrive in cold conditions, like the pea combs of Americaunas. Other breeds are powerhouses when it comes to egg production, like Rhode Island Reds. Ask yourself what you want from your birds and go from there.

Whenever giving advice to aspiring chicken owners, I always recommend they begin with pullets (young hens) or adult hens. Not only is it easier to keep them alive and healthy (no supplemental heat needed) it is far less expensive up front than chicks. No need to buy special equipment for an indoor brooder while waiting for your chicks to feather out.

You can always find chicks at your local farm & feed store, but that is not your only option. Thanks to this fabulous thing we call the internet, you have access to so many cool chicken breeds out there. Here are a couple of my favorite sources!

Sky Girl Farm

Alchemist Farm

Upfront Costs & Coop Requirements

Before purchasing any chickens, check city rules and ordinances. You might be required to buy a permit and have an inspection prior to obtaining any birds. In some cities and counties, backyard chickens are prohibited. Other cities, like mine, have a maximum amount of birds per residence rule. Most cities do not allow you to keep roosters. Do your homework!

90% of the money you spend on your chickens during their lifetime will be the upfront costs of their coop. Trust me, it’s important to do it well and do it right before moving your ladies in. Expect to spend a couple to a few hundred dollars on a coop setup. 

There are pre-fabricated chicken coop options out there, but in my experience, the ones you can get from the farm store for a hundred bucks are not worth your money. They are flimsy and very susceptible to predator attacks. Your best bet is to either build it up with your own two hands, or find a local builder who will do the job right.

I ended up coverting a dog house we had for our childhood dog into a henhouse, and investing most of my money in building a predator proof run.

When putting your coop together, keep in mind how many chickens you’re planning on keeping – then factor in twice that amount. The chicken math will get you.

Chickens require a minimum square footage both in the henhouse and in their outside space. Plan for at least 3 square feet per bird inside and 10 square feet of space outside. You’ll need adequate perching space inside and out, as well as nesting boxes for them to lay their eggs. One nest box per 3 birds is a good rule of thumb.

Keep Them Safe!

Before you go pick out chickens, take proper precautions to predator proof your setup. It’s not a matter of if you’ll encounter a predator of some type, it’s when.

Hardware cloth is much better in my opinion than chicken wire. Chicken wire does a decent job at keeping things contained but it does not do a good job at keeping things out. Predators like raccoons have no issue ripping through chicken wire. 

Bury the wire a few inches to a foot underground along the perimeter of your run and coop while you’re at it. Chickens are master diggers. 

Feeding Your Chickens

Chickens are known for not being very picky when it comes to food. Yes, you can feed your chickens table scraps! Our girls love and appreciate when we pay them a visit after doing some food prep. But, believe it or not, there are some foods that you should avoid feeding to your ladies.

Also know that chickens, being somewhat of scavengers, will also get into things they shouldn’t. For example, my girls once found some styrofoam insulation and thought it was dessert. Keep harmful items out of pecking distance!

Of course, their main diet should consist of intentionally formulated chicken food. There are a few different choices out there, ranging from chick starter to meat and game bird food. When choosing what to feed to my ladies, I look at the protein content on the label. For laying hens, aim for a 16% or higher feed. You’ll also want to give them access to a calcium source. A lot of people feed oyster shell, and others feed them back their dried, crushed eggshells.

I pay just under $20 for a 50 pound bag of chicken food at my local feed store. I am unsure how long this typically lasts, as it ebbs and flows depending on the season.

In the winter months, be prepared to up their protein intake. Sometimes they go through a molt just in time for a snowstorm, those wonderful weirdos. During colder months, it would be beneficial to have extra calories on hand such as black oil sunflower seed, mealworms and occasionally scratch grains.

Enjoying a homegrown melon.

Keeping Your Chickens Healthy

For being such hardy animals, chickens can be particularly susceptible to disease, especially respiratory. There are too many symptoms and diseases to watch out for to list in this section, but you can save yourself some trouble by preparing a first aid kit prior to bringing your ladies home.

Some things to have on hand for a chicken emergency:

  • Garlic & apple cider vinegar
  • Blukote
  • Vet wrap
  • Sugar and honey
  • Lime (vs diatomaceous earth)
  • Tums
  • Small dog crate

You’ll want to make sure you give them a dry spot to dust bathe in their coop, and making sure you’re keeping the house clean. Both of these will help keep any mite issues and disease at bay.

Happy & Safe Chickens

Chickens are very social creatures! Give them plenty of enrichment, such as changing up their outdoor perching, giving them novel vegetables, making your own chicken treats – they love to have fun.

Enrichment can also come in the form of letting your girls free-range around your backyard. But here are my warnings with that:

Predators can come in many forms, such as birds of prey, loose neighborhood dogs, raccoons and weasels. By now you should have a secure coop, but if you decide to free-range, at the very least you should have a fully fenced yard.

I choose to keep my girls contained in a predator proof henhouse attached to a spacious run. I have too many raccoons and hawks hanging around to risk them getting attacked. I do let them out to free-range in my yard occasionally, but only when I can watch them.

FAQ

Do I need rooster to get eggs?

NOPE! (Insert happy dance) Hens will lay eggs regardless of there being a rooster around or not. The eggs you get just won’t be fertilized for obvious reasons.

Do I need to heat my henhouse in winter?

Not usually! Chickens have a much higher body temperature than we do, with a thick feather coat to match. Just focus on giving them a weather proof house that allows them to escape from cold winds.

Another reason not to use supplemental heat in a henhouse is the fire danger risk. I’ve heard way too many horror stories to stick a heat lamp in my coop!

How long do chickens live?

It depends on a lot of factors, but typically 8-10 years. Some people will say their chickens are old at age 3, because they see a slow down of eggs. But I’ve had a hen lay up until the ripe old age of 9!


Phew!! You made it through! I’ll throw some links down below for some of my favorite chicken products so you can give your girls the best start in their new home.

Please don’t hesitate to reach out and comment if you have any questions, and remember you can always email me as well. Happy chicken keeping, my friends! And remember: chicken math is real. It’ll get you some day.

Until next time,

Becca

Some great products to start you off

5 Comments

  • Allison Emerson

    Becca, you have outdone yourself!! Thank you so much for this amazing crash course on chickens. Little man will be excited to read it tomorrow, too. You’re a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate you sharing what you know with all of us.

  • Cynthia Rodriguez

    I’m new: in the planning stage actually. You said to find out what chickens you need but I don’t know which ones will be good and safe in Florida. We live south Florida and I don’t want any over heating (or freezing the 1-2 weeks that it gets cold)

    Could you help me

    • Becca

      Chickens with large combs are better suited for warmer climates. It gives them more surface area to dissipate heat. Do a quick Google search for “chicken breeds for hot climate” and you should be able to make a choice of which breeds you want. I grew up in a place that got very hot in the summer, and our Rhode island reds did great. Thanks for reading!

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